This trip was truly unforgettable—a journey into the Nordtern Norway’s breathtaking nature. I spent a week on the Lofoten Islands, joining my parents in their camper. My route there was a bit of an adventure itself: flying from Zagreb through Copenhagen, then Oslo, and finally to Narvik, which is one of the closest airports to Lofoten. Another option for arriving is Harstad Airport.
Even before landing, I was already in awe. The sky was clear, and from above, the islands looked like we were flying over some exotic islands since the sea was turqouise blue with hills that resembled moundains, and lakes seemed to float atop the terrain. There was so much colour in the air and I got filled with excitement for exloration.
First Impressions and the Midnight Sun
As soon as I set foot in Lofoten, I was mesmerized. The way the lakes, rivers, and sea intertwined was unreal. Long stretches of road were lined with campers, hikers, and tents pitched wherever nature called. The fjords and birch trees stood out the most— for me there was something mystical about those trees.
On my first night I set up a tent on the beach in Laukvik beach. In Norway, you can camp almost anywhere as long as you’re at least 100 meters from private property or there’s no sign prohibiting it. Laukvik has a charming lighthouse and a peaceful pier, and it was also where I experienced the midnight sun for the first time.
I wasn’t sure how I’d manage to sleep without darkness—especially since I usually prioritize sleeping routine and circadian rhythm. But in Northern Norway, summer has its own rhythm. The sun doesn’t set, the golden hour stretches on forever, and suddenly, the usual rules about sleep don’t seem to matter. It is common that people make dinner at 11 or 12 at night, just sitting outside, soaking in the beauty of never settling sun. I couldn’t help but do the same.
Exploring Haukland and Uttakleiv Beaches
The next stop was Haukland Beach, one of the most famous beaches in Lofoten. It was stunning, but we decided to keep driving to see what else was out there. After a short tunnel, we reached Uttakleiv Beach, where you can watch the midnight sun all the way through—something Haukland doesn’t offer.
From Uttakleiv, I set myself up for my first hike. I started around 9 p.m. and reached the top in about an hour and a half. The hike is relatively easy, but I made plenty of stops to take photos and soak in the views. At the summit, I stayed past midnight, chatting with fellow hikers, sharing stories, and even befriending a few sheep that were wandering around. There was something special about having golden hour during the whole hike and how the sun touches the land is like gentle hugs of sun and the Earth – this is how I experienced it and it still brings a smile to my face when I remember this feeling.
Tip: Many people think Mannen is only accessible from Haukland Beach, but it’s just as easy to start from Uttakleiv, as the trails from both sides connect.
Reinebringen: Steps to the Sky
Reinebringen was next on the list. This iconic hike has 1,978 steps, and while it’s manageable, it does require some pacing—especially toward the top, where I saw some people crawling up on all fours.
I convinced my mom to join me for this one. We started in the middle of the day, unsure of what the view would be like due to the clouds. The weather in Lofoten is quite unpredictable—it can be sunny one moment and foggy or rainy the next. When we reached the top, there was no view at first, but we waited patiently, despite the chill. Eventually, the clouds cleared, and the view was absolutely worth it.
Vaeroy: A Hidden Paradise
From Moskenes, we took a ferry to Vaeroy, an island that felt like it was in a world of its own. We parked the camper near the old airport and I found a perfect spot to set up my tent. It was nestled under hills, surrounded by wildflowers and rocks, with no cars or people in sight. The grass was so soft under my feet and the wispers of the soft wind felt like a true fairytale.
Vaeroy called for more hiking. One evening, I convinced my mom to join me and we started walking along the beach and just followed the path to see where it would lead us. The landscape kept changing—rocks, sandy beaches, grassy slopes, and some steep sections. After about three hours, we reached Eidet Beach, a bay shaped like a crescent moon. The midnight sun lit up the whole journey, making it feel surreal. We were quite exhausted on our way back as it was more than 6 hours of hiking but totally worth it. Despite hiking way pass midnight, we passed a lot of people hiking back or even in the same direction.
The next day, we hiked to Haheia, where the NASA station sits at the top. The hike was straightforward, following a road that’s also accessible by bike. The views were incredible, sas this view is considered one of the nicest in Lofoten – it is indeed as the view from the top gives you an outlook of the whole island which is not really that big. This hike was pretty easy, 3 hours total and there is a winding asphalt rode to the top, you can even bike all the way up if you would like.
Final Days and Farewell
The next adventure led to Rystad Lofoten Camping, which was indeed one of the nicest camps. Again, I set up my tent somewhere on the ground to connect with nature and feel her as much as I could. Another place we stayed was Kongsmark. It wasn’t as spectacular, but we went on a hike through beautiful forest, ferns, streams and lots of moss.
On my last day, we camped somewhere near Narvik airport. During an evening walk by the beach, I felt called to continue inland. As I walked toward the rocks, I found myself in the middle of a meadow surrounded by birch trees. There was a small rock, and I sat on it, allowing myself to close my eyes in meditation. This was where I felt most alive—completely alone, surrounded by trees, with no one else around. I was filled with deep appreciation for the Nordic energy, which seemed to infuse my body with vitality.
I had no phone with me to take pictures and don’t even know the exact location, but the feeling and the scenery will stay with me forever. This week in Norway was an experience filled with connection, awe for the beauty of nature, and encounters with wonderful people. A short trip, yet one rich with feelings that are truly unique to this place.
